POLYHYDROXYSTEARIC ACID

Obtaining:  

It is a polymer/oligomer derived from hydroxystearic acid (very often 12-hydroxystearic acid), which can be obtained from fat materials of vegetable origin, classically related to castor oil derivatives. Through polymerization/condensation processes, this ""longer"" molecule is obtained, with great affinity for oily phases and mineral powder surfaces.

Benefits:  

In cosmetic formulation, it is mainly used as a dispersant and stabilizer of pigments and mineral filters: it helps to better wet and disperse powders such as titanium dioxide or zinc oxide in the oil phase, reducing clumping and improving application uniformity. This usually results in smoother and silkier textures, with better glide, and in mineral sunscreens, it can help reduce the ""paste"" feeling and optimize the finish (less drag/whitening, depending on the formula). Additionally, it contributes to the stability of anhydrous systems and emulsions with a high particle load, providing a more cosmetic sensory experience and better spreadability.